Dayton Daily News

Q: Cruise control affected by vacuum leak

After setting the cruise control in my 1986 Cadillac Seville , the speed will gradually drop. What could cause this? G.H., Chippewa Falls , Wis.

A: Your car is looking for a good fishing spot. All kidding aside, the trouble could be caused by a leaky vacuum line. Check all the vacuum lines and fittings for cracks and loose connections. Replace lines and fittings if needed. Tighten loose fittings if found.

It’s also possible the linkage needs adjustment, the speed sender unit might have a fault, the set switch might be faulty or the servo might have a fault. Tests of these components may find a fault.

Rust locks wheel

Q: The right rear wheel sometimes locks up on my 2005 Dodge Neon SXT. This usually happens after I wash the vehicle and then park it in the garage for a few days. When I want to use the car, the right rear wheel needs to be broken loose before the car will move. Once it does break loose, the brakes sound like an old Tin Lizzie. This doesn’t happen if I go to an automatic car wash five miles from home. It only happens when I wash it at home. And it only happens to the right rear wheel.

What’s up? L.J., e-mail

A: Dr. Gizmo readers are the most intelligent readers in the world, but some may not be old enough to know what a Tin Lizzie is. I’m not positive, but I think it’s a vehicle such as a Model A Ford built way back when cars used leather belts for brake shoes. As for the trouble, the right rear brake is getting wet. The brake shoes and brake drum develop a rusty film. The rust bonds these pieces. As a result, the wheel locks. When you attempt to drive the vehicle, the engine has to overcome this bond before the car will move.

Once the bond is broken, and you are on your merry way, when you apply the brakes the rust causes grinding and squeaking sounds similar to the sounds I’m told old Tin Lizzies made. With each application of the brakes, the rust wears away and the noise subsides.

There is no permanent fix but, you can drive the car after giving it a bath to dry the brakes. Also, cleaning and adjusting the brakes may curtail this condition.

Excessive engine wear causes serpentine belt to shred

Q: I know that you are a smart fellow, but your advice to a reader the other day missed the mark. You suggested that he replace the serpentine belt on his Ford Explorer to eliminate a noise.

I have an Explorer, and after six belt replacements and replacing the alternator, water pump, idler pulley and belt tensioner, the serpentine belt in my Explorer continued to make noise. The alignment of the belt also was checked; despite this, the belt made noise and shredded. Now a mechanic says there must be something wrong in the engine, but it will take about six hours of time to find out if maybe the problem is caused by a worn thrust bearing. My Explorer is now for sale.

Can you tell the other reader? B.S., e-mail

A: Sorry to hear of your dilemma, but I don’t think that I have ever been accused of being smart. Be this as it may, you have spent a great deal of money unnecessarily. A shredding serpentine belt is a symptom of a belt alignment problem. This indeed can be caused by excessive wear within the engine. Your assumption is right on.

Since the other reader did not say in his letter that the belt is shredding, it’s more likely that the pulleys need a thorough cleaning and the belt needs replacing.

However, if there is excessive engine wear to a thrust bearing, a sharp technician and a dial indicator could detect this without having to disassemble the engine.

Don’t guess

Q: My 1994 Lincoln Town Car has an intermittent starting problem. It cranks but sometimes it won’t start. I can be driving the vehicle and stop for a short time to complete an errand. When I return to the car it won’t start. I think I have narrowed the cause of this to the powertrain control module or electronic control module. Do you know which one is at fault? L.G., e-mail

A: Don’t guess. It will end up costing you more money.

To determine the cause of the trouble you need to do more probing. An engine needs three basic ingredients to run. They are air, fuel and ignition. This hasn’t changed since cars were invented. When the engine won’t start determine if fuel or ignition is missing. Once you know this you will be able to test the system that is not functioning. Repair depends upon your findings

A/C repair is risky

Q: The air conditioner in my 1993 Nissan Maxima blows cool to warm. I added 24 ounces of R134 to the system but cold air still is not blowing from the vents. The clutch on the compressor engages but only for short periods of time.

Is the amount of refrigerant proper? Should I jump the pressure switch? M.M., e-mail

A: Repairing an air conditioning system is risky and could cause severe injury. This is a repair you should hand over to a professional technician as refrigerant is dangerous and if the a/c system is not properly serviced a hose could explode. Also, if you are using a kit purchased from an auto supply store the can of refrigerant could explode right in your hands.

The amount of refrigerant is close. The specification is 1.94 lbs. It is normal for the compressor clutch to cycle on and off. You state that it cycles too quickly. This might be due to a lack of refrigerant or you might have added too much but what you added to the system should have produced cold air.

Do not jump the pressure switch. Part of its job is to cycle the compressor. The compressor should not be constantly engaged as constant operation might cause pressure to exceed system operating limits.

The trouble with the air conditioning system might be due to a problem in the dash controls, air blend doors or perhaps a faulty vacuum line. Check for problems and fix faults as needed. A shop manual, diagnostic tools and hand tools are instrumental in finding the cause of this malfunction.

Starter woes

Q: I hope you can save my 1990 Mercury Sable with a 3.8 liter V-6 engine. I love this car but fear it is headed for the crusher. Intermittently the starter won’t engage. It spins and makes a grinding noise.

About two years ago when the car had 140,000 miles on it the original starter needed replacement. The starter was replaced but since then two more starter motors have been installed for the same problem and it continues. I also have replaced the wires from the battery to the starter solenoid and starter. I also replaced the battery all in vain.

When the starter falters if I wait a few minutes, and try to start the engine again, the starter works normally. Is it possible that this engine requires a special starter? R.R., Norfolk , Va.

A: Don’t fret, your Sable isn’t ready for the crusher just yet. Repair shop personnel should have installed the proper starter so I don’t think this is an issue.

Remove the starter and thoroughly inspect the flywheel. Measure flywheel runout, inspect the teeth for any damage and damage to any other part of the flywheel. If the flywheel has excessive runout or damage, replace the flywheel and starter.

If everything appears normal on the starter and flywheel make sure all ground connections are secure and free of corrosion. Correct problems as necessary.

Also, since your vehicle has rolled over 100,000 miles there is a possibility there is a malfunction in the ignition switch. The internal contacts might be excessively worn. As a result electrical power to the starting circuit might be impaired. If testing verifies this replace the switch. Also, since the starter is grinding and not engaging it will need replacement once again.

Faulty valve or circuit impairs A/C

Q: Recently I purchased a 1999 Nissan Maxima with 102,000 miles. The other day I turned on the air conditioner but it only provided room temperature air. As a result I purchased a do-it-yourself a/c refrigerant recharging kit and oil recharging kit. When I connected the recharger to the blue a/c line the pressure gauge said that there was 100 psi. The chart on recharger kit said that the pressure is too high and to not add refrigerant to the system. My car is covered by a warranty so I’m taking it to a dealer to have the a/c fixed. What could be wrong? C.B., e-mail

A: You made the right decision. The refrigerant can could have exploded.

A technician will check the system using specialized equipment. The test equipment will provide him information that will help determine the cause of the malfunction.

It’s possible a pressure switch has failed or perhaps there is a fault in the HVAC circuit such as a failed fuse, ground connection or faulty pin connection in a plug. Perhaps a valve in the compressor has failed. Repair all depends on what he finds.

Same power supply circuit

Q: My 2001 Chrysler Sebring has been nothing but trouble. The latest problem is that the turn signals and radio quit operating. If I jiggle the ignition switch they come back to life. Also, when the turn signal and radio are dead if I make a sharp right turn they will work again. Sometimes when I make a right turn they will turn off.

I’m thinking that these problems are caused by a short in the ignition switch. However, I’m puzzled as to how these are interconnected. Can you help? B.E., Bonita Springs , Fla.

A: You would think that the turn signals and radio would be on separate circuits. Well they are, but the source of electrical power that feeds these circuits is on the accessory side of the ignition switch. While this is true it would be wise to check plugs, pins and ground connections for security and corrosion before the ignition switch is replaced. Problems such as these could cause the symptoms you describe but from what you describe the switch likely is the cause of the trouble.

Oil consumption issue

Q: Recently I sold my 1999 Cadillac Deville with a NorthStar V-8 engine. One frustration I had with the car is that the engine burned a quart of oil every 1,000 to 1,500 miles.

A few weeks ago I went to a Cadillac dealer to check out the new models. A salesperson came up to me and during our conversation he said that since I’m a previous owner of a car with a NorthStar engine I am already aware of oil consumption issues. Why would a car manufacture build an engine that requires this kind of maintenance? B.D., Woodbury , Minn.

A: Not all NorthStar engines consume a quart of oil every 1,000 or 1,500 miles. Some travel 3,000 miles before needing a quart and some travel further. The quantity of oil an engine consumes depends upon driving habits, weather extremes, preventive maintenance and oil poured into the engine.

Conditions you describe sometimes are not discovered until after a product is placed in service. When this happens a car maker often will not change the design. I can only speculate as to why but cost could be the factor. I recall when General Motors outfitted millions of cars with steering racks that failed but it took nearly 10 years for a design change to cure the problem. Apparently, it was less expense to replace steering racks under a special program as they failed than to improve the rack so it wouldn’t fail. This may seem crazy but nothing should be a surprise in the auto industry.

Rough ride ahead

Q: Recently I purchased a 2006 Volkswagen Golf that I like very much, but there is an annoying problem. The car rides rough over bumps and asphalt strips in the road. When I hit one of these the car goes boom and vibrates. This causes my ears and earlobes to vibrate. If I drive long enough I get a headache.

I brought the problem to the attention of my dealer. Service department personnel drove the car. I was told that they noticed the vibration but it is the result of the design of the car. They suggested lowering the tire pressure. This didn’t cure the trouble.

Another solution offered is to exchange my car for a Jetta or Passat, but this will cost me another $5,000. I can’t accept this.

I’m looking for another solution. I’ve added padding to the driver’s seat but this didn’t cure the trouble. Someone suggested that I have air shocks installed in the vehicle. I asked dealer personnel about this. They were going to check into this but I haven’t heard from them. Can you help? E.S., St. Paul , Minn.

A: The Golf does have a sporty suspension and a short wheelbase. As a result, you feel the surface of the road. This is due to the design of the vehicle. Also, dealer personnel likely will be reluctant to modify the vehicle from the factory original configuration due to the fact that this will compromise the factory warranty. Also, if air struts are an alternative don’t expect the dealer to install them free of charge. There also is no guarantee that air struts will cure the trouble as the air struts likely are made to meet or exceed the specifications of the factory original parts. As this is the case the dealer may decline to install them. You might have to take your vehicle to an independent repair shop for the work.

To be frank, the best alternative is to consider the exchange for another vehicle even though it will cost more. The ride of the two vehicles you mention is more supple than the Golf, but neither vehicle provides a soft, cushy ride. Before you make any decision be sure to test drive both vehicles to compare the ride comfort and road noise.

No adjustment for cold high idle

Q: In the morning upon the initial start of the day the InTech V-8 engine in my 2002 Lincoln Continental has a fast idle of about 2,500 rpm. I have owned two other cars with this engine and neither has operated like this. I can’t imagine that it is good for the engine to run this fast upon the initial start.

I have talked with a couple of certified mechanics about this and they tell me there is nothing to adjust. They said that the computer controls how fast the engine idles. Their suggestion is to use synthetic oil to cut down on engine wear.

My car has 67,000 miles on it and I’ve only owned a short time. Do you have any suggestions? D.S., Grand Island , Neb.

A: The technicians are correct when they say there aren’t adjustments but there are procedures that might slow the cold engine idle. Since there really isn’t a cold engine fast idle specification it’s impossible to determine if the speed your engine develops is out of specs. The warm engine idle should be around 700 rpm so a technician can only make sure this is within factory specifications.

Since you recently purchased the vehicle you don’t know the maintenance and repair history. Repairs might have been performed. It’s possible the computer needs an update or reprogramming. A technician with the proper tools and factory procedure can perform this work.

It’s also possible the throttle position sensor needs tweaking or has a fault. Have this checked.

Also, it’s possible the airflow meter is dirty and needs a thorough cleaning. Since this part monitors air temperature, barometric pressure and air flow a little dirt can result in false information being sent to the computer. As a result the computer might bump up the engine speed. Cleaning might calm the engine speed.

Ask a qualified technician to consider these suggestions.

Low voltage to instruments

Q: When driving my 1992 Lincoln Town car during daytime hours with the headlights turned on, the instrument lights are so dim I can’t read the speedometer. At night the instrument lights illuminate without any problem.

I checked all the fuses. They are fine. What’s wrong? A.T.S., Sparks , Nev.

A: First of all dim digital lights are characteristic in your make vehicle. When your car was built the dash lights were not designed with bright lights for daytime use with the headlamps turned on. However, there might be a malfunction. If you have the illumination level turned all the way to the brightest level you should be able to read the electronic dash although dimly. A check of the voltage to the lights by a qualified technician should determine if there is a fault. If so there may be a poor connection due to corrosion or loose connection. It’s also possible there is a fault in the instrument cluster. If so the cluster likely will need replacement.

Diagnostic tests may also find that a module is not functioning as designed or perhaps there is a problem in the headlamp circuit.

If there is a malfunction repair all depends on what a technician finds.

Simultaneous application of brake and gas pedal

Q: When I apply the brakes in my 2004 Jeep Cherokee my foot sometimes simultaneously hits the accelerator pedal. This has caused several near accidents. I had the truck checked by my Jeep dealer and I have been referred to Chrysler Corporation without receiving any help. My previous car was a 1995 Ford Explorer and I never had this problem in that car.

Can you help resolve this problem before something serious happens? W.L.T., e-mail

A: If dealer personnel have inspected the brake and accelerator assemblies to find that they are operating as designed there is nothing they can repair. Installation of new parts will put them in the same position as the original parts. Despite this it’s feasible the brake pedal height position is too low as a result of excessively worn brakes, an out of adjustment push rod, the rear brakes may need adjustment or perhaps there is a malfunction in the power brake booster. A technician might consider these possible causes and take appropriate action.

It’s also possible that you might have to make some changes. Perhaps it is necessary for you to get into the habit of moving your right foot further to the left when applying the brake pedal. Perhaps your shoes are extra wide and a different style shoe may resolve the situation. Perhaps installation of specialized hand controls will reduce the hazard.

Of course it’s possible there is nothing you or dealer personnel can do. If this is the case you might consider the purchase of another make vehicle.

Transmission performs tricks

Q: Recently the computer was replaced in my 2000 Mazda MPV. Shortly after this the automatic transmission began to act up so I had the fluid changed. This didn’t cure the trouble. This resulted in a transmission overhaul.

Now the newly overhauled transmission has a problem. When slowing for a stop if I accelerate before coming to a full stop the transmission downshifts in to low gear. Then it upshifts to another gear and stays in that gear until I release the gas pedal.

I took the vehicle back to the shop that did the overhaul but diagnostic tests found nothing wrong. Can you help? J.Z., e-mail

A: There may be a loose or corroded electrical connection. A technician might consider a thorough inspection of the plugs and wiring. If there is a loose pin in a plug or a poor ground connection the transmission will perform some unusual tricks. Repair could be as simple as repositioning a wire harness or tightening a ground connection.

Also, since transmission shifts are controlled by a computer it may have a faulty plug or perhaps the computer needs reprogramming.

Poor battery cable impairs starter

Q:The starter in my 1988 Ford Taurus with 85,000 miles has been replaced twice with a starter of the best quality I could find. There now is a third starter in the car and it too is showing signs of failure. Technicians have checked the connections and didn’t find any problems.

My car starts instantly when I turn the ignition so it is not like the starter has to do a lot of work. What is causing the starters to fail so frequently? N.H., e-mail

A: Some technicians say that FORD stands for Fix Or Repair Daily. While this isn’t true Fords are subject to the shortcomings of any other car. Your 18 year old vehicle is a testament as to just what can happen to a car of this age. Actually what might be the trouble would likely have occurred sooner. Ask a technician to check the battery cables. Perhaps one or both have been attacked by corrosion that has slowly made its way deep down into the cable strands under the insulation. This increases resistance and also causes the starter to draw more current than designed. This will cause premature failure. If this is the case installation of new cables will likely solve the trouble. Also, the starter might need replacement again.

Thanks for all of your great questions. Dr. Gizmo looks forward to more.