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Faulty valve or circuit impairs A/C
BY PHIL ARENDT
For Wheels
Q:
Recently I purchased a 1999 Nissan Maxima with 102,000 miles. The other day I turned on the air conditioner, but it only provided room-temperature air. As a result, I purchased a do-it-yourself A/C refrigerant recharging kit and oil recharging kit. When I connected the recharger to the blue A/C line, the pressure gauge said that there was
100 psi. The chart on the recharger kit said that the pressure is too high and to not add refrigerant to the system. My car is covered by a warranty so I’m taking it to a dealer to have the A/C fixed.
What could be wrong? C.B., e-mail A: You made the right decision. The refrigerant can could have exploded. A technician will check the system using specialized equipment. The test equipment will provide him or her with information that will help determine the cause of the malfunction. It’s possible a pressure switch has failed, or perhaps there is a fault in the HVAC circuit such as a failed fuse, ground connection or faulty pin connection in a plug. Perhaps a valve in the compressor has failed. Repair all depends on what he or she finds. Same power supply circuit Q: My 2001 Chrysler Sebring has been nothing but trouble. The latest problem is that the turn signals and radio quit operating. If I jiggle the ignition switch, they come back to life. Also, when the turn signal and radio are dead, if I make a sharp right turn, they will work again. Sometimes when I make a right turn they will turn off.I’m thinking that these problems are caused by a short in the ignition switch. However, I’m puzzled as to how these are interconnected. Can you help? B.E., Bonita Springs , Fla. A: You would think that the turn signals and radio would be on separate circuits. Well they are, but the source of electrical power that feeds these circuits is on the accessory side of the ignition switch. While this is true, it would be wise to check plugs, pins and ground connections for security and corrosion before the ignition switch is replaced. Problems such as these could cause the symptoms you describe, but from what you describe, the switch likely is the cause of the trouble.Oil consumption issue Q: Recently I sold my 1999 Cadillac DeVille with a NorthStar V-8 engine. One frustration I had with the car is that the engine burned a quart of oil every 1,000 to 1,500 miles.A few weeks ago I went to a Cadillac dealer to check out the new models. A salesperson came up to me and during our conversation he said that since I’m a previous owner of a car with a NorthStar engine, I am already aware of oil consumption issues. Why would a car manufacture build an engine that requires this kind of maintenance? B.D., Woodbury , Minn. A: Not all NorthStar engines consume a quart of oil every 1,000 or 1,500 miles. Some travel 3,000 miles before needing a quart, and some travel further. The quantity of oil an engine consumes depends upon driving habits, weather extremes, preventive maintenance and oil poured into the engine.Conditions you describe sometimes are not discovered until after a product is placed in service. When this happens, a car maker often will not change the design. I can only speculate as to why, but cost could be the factor. I recall when General Motors outfitted millions of cars with steering racks that failed but it took nearly 10 years for a design change to cure the problem. Apparently, it was less expense to replace steering racks under a special program as they failed than to improve the rack so it wouldn’t fail. This may seem crazy but nothing should be a surprise in the auto industry. Rough ride ahead Q: Recently I purchased a 2006 Volkswagen Golf that I like very much, but there is an annoying problem. The car rides rough over bumps and asphalt strips in the road. When I hit one of these the car goes boom and vibrates. This causes my ears and earlobes to vibrate. If I drive long enough I get a headache.I brought the problem to the attention of my dealer. Service department personnel drove the car. I was told that they noticed the vibration but it is the result of the design of the car. They suggested lowering the tire pressure. This didn’t cure the trouble. Another solution offered is to exchange my car for a Jetta or Passat, but this will cost me another $5,000. I can’t accept this. I’m looking for another solution. I’ve added padding to the driver’s seat but this didn’t cure the trouble. Someone suggested that I have air shocks installed in the vehicle. I asked dealer personnel about this. They were going to check into this but I haven’t heard from them. Can you help? E.S., St. Paul , Minn. A: The Golf does have a sporty suspension and a short wheelbase. As a result, you feel the surface of the road. This is due to the design of the vehicle. Also, dealer personnel likely will be reluctant to modify the vehicle from the factory original configuration due to the fact that this will compromise the factory warranty. Also, if air struts are an alternative don’t expect the dealer to install them free of charge. There also is no guarantee that air struts will cure the trouble as the air struts likely are made to meet or exceed the specifications of the factory original parts. As this is the case the dealer may decline to install them. You might have to take your vehicle to an independent repair shop for the work.To be frank, the best alternative is to consider the exchange for another vehicle even though it will cost more. The ride of the two vehicles you mention is more supple than the Golf, but neither vehicle provides a soft, cushy ride. Before you make any decision be sure to test drive both vehicles to compare the ride comfort and road noise. No adjustment for cold high idle Q: In the morning upon the initial start of the day the InTech V-8 engine in my 2002 Lincoln Continental has a fast idle of about 2,500 rpm. I have owned two other cars with this engine and neither has operated like this. I can’t imagine that it is good for the engine to run this fast upon the initial start.I have talked with a couple of certified mechanics about this and they tell me there is nothing to adjust. They said that the computer controls how fast the engine idles. Their suggestion is to use synthetic oil to cut down on engine wear. My car has 67,000 miles on it and I’ve only owned a short time. Do you have any suggestions? D.S., Grand Island , Neb. A: The technicians are correct when they say there aren’t adjustments but there are procedures that might slow the cold engine idle. Since there really isn’t a cold engine fast idle specification it’s impossible to determine if the speed your engine develops is out of specs. The warm engine idle should be around 700 rpm so a technician can only make sure this is within factory specifications.Since you recently purchased the vehicle you don’t know the maintenance and repair history. Repairs might have been performed. It’s possible the computer needs an update or reprogramming. A technician with the proper tools and factory procedure can perform this work. It’s also possible the throttle position sensor needs tweaking or has a fault. Have this checked. Also, it’s possible the airflow meter is dirty and needs a thorough cleaning. Since this part monitors air temperature, barometric pressure and air flow a little dirt can result in false information being sent to the computer. As a result the computer might bump up the engine speed. Cleaning might calm the engine speed. Ask a qualified technician to consider these suggestions. Low voltage to instruments Q: When driving my 1992 Lincoln Town car during daytime hours with the headlights turned on, the instrument lights are so dim I can’t read the speedometer. At night the instrument lights illuminate without any problem.I checked all the fuses. They are fine. What’s wrong? A.T.S., Sparks , Nev. A: First of all dim digital lights are characteristic in your make vehicle. When your car was built the dash lights were not designed with bright lights for daytime use with the headlamps turned on. However, there might be a malfunction. If you have the illumination level turned all the way to the brightest level you should be able to read the electronic dash although dimly. A check of the voltage to the lights by a qualified technician should determine if there is a fault. If so there may be a poor connection due to corrosion or loose connection. It’s also possible there is a fault in the instrument cluster. If so the cluster likely will need replacement. Diagnostic tests may also find that a module is not functioning as designed or perhaps there is a problem in the headlamp circuit. If there is a malfunction repair all depends on what a technician finds. Simultaneous application of brake and gas pedal Q: When I apply the brakes in my 2004 Jeep Cherokee my foot sometimes simultaneously hits the accelerator pedal. This has caused several near accidents. I had the truck checked by my Jeep dealer and I have been referred to Chrysler Corporation without receiving any help. My previous car was a 1995 Ford Explorer and I never had this problem in that car.Can you help resolve this problem before something serious happens? W.L.T., e-mail A: If dealer personnel have inspected the brake and accelerator assemblies to find that they are operating as designed there is nothing they can repair. Installation of new parts will put them in the same position as the original parts. Despite this it’s feasible the brake pedal height position is too low as a result of excessively worn brakes, an out of adjustment push rod, the rear brakes may need adjustment or perhaps there is a malfunction in the power brake booster. A technician might consider these possible causes and take appropriate action.It’s also possible that you might have to make some changes. Perhaps it is necessary for you to get into the habit of moving your right foot further to the left when applying the brake pedal. Perhaps your shoes are extra wide and a different style shoe may resolve the situation. Perhaps installation of specialized hand controls will reduce the hazard. Of course it’s possible there is nothing you or dealer personnel can do. If this is the case you might consider the purchase of another make vehicle. Transmission performs tricks Q: Recently the computer was replaced in my 2000 Mazda MPV. Shortly after this the automatic transmission began to act up so I had the fluid changed. This didn’t cure the trouble. This resulted in a transmission overhaul.Now the newly overhauled transmission has a problem. When slowing for a stop if I accelerate before coming to a full stop the transmission downshifts in to low gear. Then it upshifts to another gear and stays in that gear until I release the gas pedal. I took the vehicle back to the shop that did the overhaul but diagnostic tests found nothing wrong. Can you help? J.Z., e-mail A: There may be a loose or corroded electrical connection. A technician might consider a thorough inspection of the plugs and wiring. If there is a loose pin in a plug or a poor ground connection the transmission will perform some unusual tricks. Repair could be as simple as repositioning a wire harness or tightening a ground connection.Also, since transmission shifts are controlled by a computer it may have a faulty plug or perhaps the computer needs reprogramming. Poor battery cable impairs starter Q: The starter in my 1988 Ford Taurus with 85,000 miles has been replaced twice with a starter of the best quality I could find. There now is a third starter in the car and it too is showing signs of failure. Technicians have checked the connections and didn’t find any problems. My car starts instantly when I turn the ignition so it is not like the starter has to do a lot of work. What is causing the starters to fail so frequently? N.H., e-mail A: Some technicians say that FORD stands for Fix Or Repair Daily. While this isn’t true Fords are subject to the shortcomings of any other car. Your 18 year old vehicle is a testament as to just what can happen to a car of this age. Actually what might be the trouble would likely have occurred sooner. Ask a technician to check the battery cables. Perhaps one or both have been attacked by corrosion that has slowly made its way deep down into the cable strands under the insulation. This increases resistance and also causes the starter to draw more current than designed. This will cause premature failure. If this is the case installation of new cables will likely solve the trouble. Also, the starter might need replacement again. Phil Arendt is an automotive columnist, consultant and ASE-certified master technician. E-mail him on the Web at http://www.drgizmo.ws.
Phil Arendt is an automotive columnist, consultant and ASE-certified master technician. E-mail him on the Web at http://www.drgizmo.ws.
Appeared in July 22, 2006 issue of Wheels, a product of the Dayton Daily News
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